Let’s talk brows- By: Emily Umunna
As a professional makeup artist I have had a passion for “sculpted” brows since the beginning of my career. This has a led me to play and test out multiple products over the last 10 years and share the best tips and techniques to achieve the ultimate sculpted brow look!
Before I get started it’s very important that I state the importance of a licensed esthetician or brow expert to shape the brow hairs prior to this brow sculpting technique. I personally suggest brow waxing or threading.
There are five types of brow products to enhance or “sculpt” the brow; brow pencil, brow gel, brow cream, brow powder, and brow hair gel. Some of these products require tools.
For a natural fuller haired brow I suggest brow powder and brow hair gel.
For a sparse thinner brow I suggest brow gel/cream, pencil, and brow hair gel.
Some sculpted brows run into an issue of either too close, high, long or thin.
Here is a guide I tend to follow to ensure brow balance. Simply use your brow pencil or brush to measure.
Below is a full makeup application with one brow filled and sculpted and the second brow without any product. I personally shape my brow hairs without the tail because I prefer to create a shape that is higher than my natural shape as seen in the picture.
Step 1: Fill in brow hair with brown hair gel. Pictured is MAC cosmetics’ brow gel in “Show Off”. Many other cosmetics companies carry this product. Test the color that best match your hair color. I prefer a color that is a bit lighter in order to prevent from creating an intense brow.
Once you have measured the beginning of the brow, start to fill the brow with brow pencil, cream, or shadow at the middle of the brow. Pictured is MAC cosmetics’ brow pencil in “Spiked”. Starting in the middle will prevent from the boxed brow look or a brow that is too heavy on the inner. Sketch the bottom of the brow shape and then the top of the brow then fill in the color bringing the tail to a thinner point as pictured below.
Once the shape is achieved you can stop there. However if you want a more sculpted look or your brow isn’t as clean as you would like, then use the next step. Below is filling the brow after I have sketched the shape.
In order to “clean” the brow, I like to use a concealer that is one shade lighter than my skin tone. The goal is to achieve the look attained when the brows are freshly shaped, waxed, or threaded and create a highlight below and above the brow hairs. Photo’d is MAC cosmetics’ Prolongwear concealer color NC45. In order to sculpt the brow with the concealer and gain control I use MAC cosmetics’ brush #212 (flat shape). With a small amount on the brush I start in the middle of the brow and follow underneath the brow shape created in an almost erasing method.
We can stop here but if you are looking for the ultimate brow shape, we can clean the top of the brow to create a cleaner look. Simply follow the same technique as step 4 but above the brow.
This is the last and very important step. Blend the concealer into the skin! If you are creating a look that is too light above the brow, use your own natural color foundation instead. I use my finger or a Beauty Blender sponge to blend around the brow.
Here is what your brow can look like after practicing!
You can follow the same steps with a brow that is fuller by omitting the brow sketching.
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